What is it like to be a pioneer
I remember the first time I seen JoDe Collins was at Bishop Mule Days. She was sitting on a donkey with her usual smile, I thought she was smiling at me. Now that I know her and have become good friends with JoDe, she is always smiling when she is riding a donkey. And now that I have been riding donkeys for years now myself, I understand what that smile is all about. They have more heart and courage than any other animal that I have had the pleasure to be around.
We rode together on a trail ride of the Rim-to-Rim section of the Arizona & Bright Angel trails on our trip to the Grand Canyon in 2021 with our donkeys for the first true adventure together after being friends for so many years. This may be the greatest adventure I have ever had, and it was truly an amazing ride in its own respect that will be a memory I will cherish forever.
For 2022 we talked about the idea of riding the Tahoe Rim Trail, and after my son, Chris who ran some sections of the trail to check on the conditions after the Caldor Fire, it was not a good idea, as there were many fallen trees and he thought we should wait for another time.
So JoDe came up with doing the Western States Trail, which starts from Northstar ski resort near Truckee, CA. This is the same trail that the Tevis Cup endurance ride and most of the Western States 100-mile endurance trail race follow all the way down to Auburn, CA.
So, it was decided we would leave the day after the Tevis Cup so that we could maybe gather up hay along our journey at the vet checks for our donkey style endurance ride of ours. This adventure would determine if we really could have been pioneers back in the day, or at the very least learn some of the many hardships that a pioneer may have experienced in the rough backcountry.
We met late Saturday afternoon where they started for the Tevis Cup earlier that morning. Everyone from the Tevis Cup had already packed up and left and we had the whole park all to ourselves, named Robie Equestrian Park (elevation 7,000 feet). We set up camp, highlined the donkeys and started packing all the things that we were planning to take with us to start our journey for the next day. Our night at Robie Park was a nice quiet evening, the mosquitos were happy to see us, and we had a few drops of rain to wake us early in the morning.
We had six donkeys in total; three we were riding (Ortega, Pudin, Ace) and three for packing (Loki, Rebel, Patriot). The three riders/pioneers Jody Lowrey, JoDe Collins, David Drewery and my son Chris Lowrey joined us as well backpacking on foot. JoDe insisted that she bring a couple of her dogs along with us for the trip, Pax and puppy Stewart that would be carried in a backpack style dog carrier that JoDe wore for most of the ride. So, on early Sunday morning four pioneers with their donkeys and dogs in tow left for their own endurance ride leaving Jessica Bishop and Rob Collins with the horse trailers to drive out with the idea to meet back up to support us in a few days.
It was a beautiful day for the start of our 100-mile ride and I reflected on how lucky I am to be taking this journey with my friends and their lovely animals. As I rode Dave would yell how many miles we had gone, I knew we had 21 miles to go to get to our camp and I was thinking, well this isn’t so bad. Of course, this is day one and pretty much just flat up to this point, going over some bridges and creeks with just a few mishaps, even crossing a 2-lane highway. Pax being the great dog she is marching along and Stewart in his carrier looking out at me as I rode.
Very soon we start climbing and we are looking down at the ski resort located in Olympic Valley, CA (elevation 6,200 feet) and riding along trails and roads that follow beside the ski runs for the winter skiers. We take turns getting off to lead and walk with the donkeys to give them a much-needed rest from the steep incline up to Emigrant Pass near Watson’s Monument (elevation 8,750 feet).
We finally reached to what seemed to me like the top of the world and then it was straight down on a very rocky trail as we entered the Granite Chief Wilderness. This is also where the trail started to turn into very challenging backcountry, with plenty of overgrowth, natural springs and very uneven loose footing for the donkeys to navigate. So, we led them most of the way down this part to our first camp at Hodgson's Meadow (elevation 7,175 feet).
When we all finally arrived at the campsite, I can honestly say that was one of the toughest rides I have ever done in my life. We traveled 21 miles with 4,500 feet of elevation gain and a hoof time of 8 ½ hours, and we all were very exhausted from what we are all thinking is going to be the hardest day for us.
There was plenty of grass for the donkeys to graze from, so we just let them loose while we set up camp. The water hand pump that we were expecting had been decommissioned and not been replaced but luckily there was a small stream about 100 yards away. I would lead one donkey down and the others would just freely tag along to get their drink of water.
Being highly exhausted, thirsty and hungry pioneers ourselves, we highlined the donkeys, fixed something to eat and off to bed we all went. Laying there in my sleeping bag in the meadow that night was so beautiful, to look up at the night sky with no city lights to drown out the many stars that grace me nightly, it was truly breathtaking.
Our second day’s plan was to get to our next campsite, which was Robinson Flat, only 16 miles away. I was thinking to myself that this should be a breeze since yesterday was 21 miles with an elevation gain that will be our largest daily total on this trip, but sometimes my wishful thinking doesn’t always pan out.
The ride was a little easier than the previous day, being a flatter section of the trail for most of the day but there were no creeks along this stretch for the donkeys to drink from. This was asking much from our donkeys to overcome making this section probably the hardest on them overall.
One thing I learnt on this day, JoDe Collins could be a close relative to Rambo. I asked, “If anyone had a simple band aide for a rope burn” and JoDe said “No, but she does have sutures.” I said to her “You remind me of Rambo” and then learned she has never watched any of those masterpieces of cinema starring Sylvester Stallone. I told her “She needs to at the very least watch first Rambo movie.”
I do need to say the land we have seen up to now on this ride was so unbelievable, it is so vast with all its diverse nature, trees, canyons and mountains. We are as people so lucky to live here in the United States, we have so much to see and take in, but sometimes we do not step out to take that chance to appreciate the true beauty of it all.
We finally arrived at Robinson Flat Campground (elevation 6,750 feet) with 16 miles traveled and 2,400 in elevation gained for the day in 6 hours. The campground area was closed due to falling trees with the water hydrant locked up to discourage people from using this campground.
Fortunately for us, there was a water tank left from the Tevis that Chris used to fill up buckets of water for our donkeys, they all wandered over to get their fill of water like an aggressive mob of thirsty donkeys would look like.
This was another vet check area for the Tevis Cup to take advantage of, so we did our now routine camp setup of gathering left over hay for the donkeys which Dave feed with the donkeys’ pellets and grain and then figured out our uneven ground sleeping arrangements. Tonight, was a special night with JoDe bringing her solar shower for us to wash our hair and to clean up a little bit. This did feel wonderful, but it does make me appreciate my shower at home that much more.
That night sleeping in the trees we had visits from a herd of deer with a buck who may never have seen a donkey in his life up until now and in the distance, we heard cowbells from the grazing cattle that are being used to help clean up the forest floor. We would come across these herds of cattle grazing along our way in different locations for the rest of our trip as well.
We were up early the next day again to beat the heat on day three. As we rode, we came across the cows we’d been listening to at camp that night and enjoyed more of the beautiful scenery. There was talk of anyone wanting to pull out, as we would have to decide since we were fast approaching one of the only few spots for us to get a horse trailer in, Dusty Corners (mile 45). We all voted to continue so we could at least cross the expansion bridge known as the Swinging Bridge (mile 51).
So, we continued for the day as water was less of an issue for the donkeys, but the heat would defiantly play more of a factor today. We also had a run in with a tree that must have fallen recently, we have been fortunate up to this point as they did a great job at clearing the route for the Tevis Cup.
We watered the animals below the Swinging Bridge (elevation 2,800 feet) from one of the forks that feeds into the American River before we would eventually cross over it. The donkeys did great crossing the bridge, I could feel why it is named the Swinging Bridge the moment I took my first step, but the donkeys all took it in stride.
Today the route had mostly been downhill until I reached this point, and the climb out took most of what I had as my energy levels have been depleting from this climb up to Devils Thumb (elevation 4,400 feet). We lead the donkeys up mostly due to the severe incline and the rocky trail that led us out towards Devils Thumb (mile 54).
When the top of this climb was finally reached there was plenty of leftover hay since this was another vet check area and we all took a very deserved rest. Stewart was carried up some of this last very long steep part by Chris, so the little guy was anxious to get out of his carrier to stretch his legs.
We made it to Deadwood (elevation 4,350 feet) with 18 miles and 2,200 feet of elevation gain from Robinson Flat in 7 hours. Once again, we started the usual setting camp up by taking care of the donkeys first, but things were looking up at this campsite with a functional water pump.
As true pioneers would we waited for the arrival of a pizza delivery and a resupply from Jessica and Terrie, Dave’s wife. As we all sat around to enjoy our slice of pizza, we ultimately decided that we would need to pull out at Foresthill. The donkeys were tired and beat up a little bit and we looked a little sore, tired and beat up ourselves. Jessica and Terrie relieved us of the two dogs Pax and Stewart, along with some of our gear to pack less weight on the donkeys for what will be our final day.
Day four offered many miles of narrow rocky switchback trails leading us down into two canyons just to eventually climb back out the other side. The first canyon the trail led us to is where El Dorado Creek (elevation 1,800 feet) resides and then backup up for our climb to Michigan Bluff (elevation 3,450 feet).
As the trail turned into a road upon entering Michigan Bluff (mile 62), the first house we came across, we were met by a wonderful lady watering her flowers who had a clean water trough out front she had set for the Tevis Cup. She was gracious enough to let us use her garden hose to cool our donkeys with the heat of the day approaching, nearing the 100 plus degrees we are expecting. She was such a wonderful kind person and I still I think of her to this very day.
Chicken Hawk (elevation 3,775 feet) was the start of our second canyon descent to Volcano Creek (elevation 2,675 feet) and back up towards our destination Foresthill Rd (elevation 3,400 feet). Thankfully this canyon was easier overall as the heat was now taking its toll on all of us including these six donkeys.
We finally made it to the town of Foresthill (mile 69) with the last 14 miles traveled in 6 hours and 3,000 feet of elevation gained, we were so happy to see those horse trailers, but also sad too that we did not complete the 100 miles we set out to accomplish, but our donkey’s health comes first. We did walk and ride to push through 69 of the original 100 miles we set out to do from the beginning and I will honestly say this was a true test if we could be a pioneer and yes, we could minus maybe the pizza delivery. And to JoDe Collins, Dave Drewery, Chris, all the Tevis Cup riders and Western States runners you are all truly Rambo’s in my book. A small side note directed to JoDe who at the very least needs to watch Rambo First Blood to understand what the meaning of being a Rambo truly is.
Since our ride they had a fire in the area known as the Mosquito Fire and many of the miles we traveled in the backcountry are unfortunately gone for now. It is sad to believe that a major part of the beautiful country that we rode through and admired in awe of its vast expanse of forest, all the many colors and varying terrain has left us for now, I cry thinking of all this loss sometimes, but this land will flourish and come back more beautiful again in due time.
Jody Lowrey